Posted on Updated on

Proper Use Rates

By Mike Van Dike

If you are going to use all-in rate (all in), remember that you put all your chips (money or some other whole stack) in the current bank cards are dealt, it can be very dangerous stunt, depending on whether more or less chips your opponents have and on what cards have come to you at hand, as well as one of the betting rounds. If you decide to gamble in case of any chips from an opponent more than you can situation that he will respond to your bid and if it is the combination of cards would be better, he can win all your chips and knock you out of the game. In this case, you must have a really good hand, before the decision to accept put the whole stack on the line. In the other, otherwise, you are the owner of the biggest stack in comparison with the other players at the table decided to go for broke and thus can affect other players, the fact that such You can bet is to drive them out of the game and get all their money. Click Robert J. Shiller to learn more. In this case, of course, also need to have good cards, but when you play against an opponent with a stack of several times smaller than you, the psychological advantage will be on your side and your opponent can fold, even if it has the best combination. The rate is all-powerful, but at the same time very dangerous strategy in poker, because one move, you can either knock out an opponent from the game, or be knocked out.

Councils at the rate of all-in: 1) go for broke to be having not just good but excellent hands. 2) With a large lead in chips, you can bluff and intimidate your opponents. For more information see this site: Robert J. Shiller. After losing in such a situation, you will lose not much, and winning, knock an opponent out of the game (this is especially good at tournament poker.) 3) If you go all-in bluff, it is necessary to have such cards, which can be improved in future rounds of trade. 4) Putting all the money at stake in dealt cards, you should have these cards, which may allow improvement to win. 5) Having no big stack, do not go for broke, because much of a chance that someone, then yes you will beat the game. In such a situation must have excellent maps. 6) With a small stack, you need to wait for non-cards and getting them, you can take advantage of the situation, go for broke and get two or even three times more than you bet, of course, if you win, and depends on how much players will respond to your bid. 7) Do not go for broke, with no big stack and having a poor hand, since no one will not be afraid to answer you because the loss of your opponents will not be significant.

Posted on Updated on

Material Selection

By Mike Van Dike

Making a samovar began with the selection of material. At first samovar made of red (pure) and green copper, nickel silver, and later began to use cheaper alloys such as brass. Known samovars of gold and silver. On a sheet of copper was carried out with an awl or a special hook, if scratched line was yellow and continuous, so there was a large copper cylinder. If the yellow broken line (this is indicated by an admixture of copper oxide), from a sheet of flame tube or doing small parts, which subsequently sharpened and polished. Lined sheets of copper cut to measure, lay down in the cylinder, on the edges of which cut teeth, connecting the edges, and tightly pressed against the hammer on Kobylin. Then solder it in the furnace. Irregularities in the sealed seams opilivali and again to hammer prokovyvali Kobylin.

Then housing re-annealed and slowly cooled. One of the major operations were aiming, which required several steps, each time followed by annealing in a furnace. Quite often it was repeated twelve to fourteen times. Aim samovar in the middle. After finishing bottom of the set about a tip top. Place spikes body with the neck in a circular prokovyvali Kobylin navodilnym hammer.

Neck and internal pitchers (flue) suggests the same. Then soldered to the neck of the corps, suggested finally, carefully forged – tyahtali tyahtalnym special hammer. The upper edge of the housing wall soldered copper cast hoop and sharpening the samovar and the cervix. Inner flue pipe was of two parts tightly converged. Cohesive of the tube a few times it struck, and pickle acid ludili. Busy and time-consuming process of making samovars explains why in museum collections, these products start – the first half of the XIX century, represented by a small number of instances: at this time they have done relatively little, they were for the owners of significant value, passed on, used in family is not one generation, so often they have faded away margin and they simply have not survived. In one month masters make ten simple and four or five figured samovar that cost is not cheap: from six to ten rubles apiece.